You are considering investing a considerable amount of money in a product that is unknown to you. You assume all rebuilt engines are about the same, but that is NOT TRUE. You need to know what your options are. This booklet can help. The purpose of this brochure is to inform and assist a person considering the purchase of a rebuilt engine. Many people are of the opinion that one rebuilt engine is as good as another. Nothing could be further from the truth. Through the use of proper machining equipment, careful attention to detail, and thorough techniques, an engine can be remanufactured to provide superior performance and last longer than the original engine.
But first, do you need an engine? Customers often think they need a rebuilt engine, when they really don't. We have many letters on our wall from happy customers who were told by other shops and dealerships that they needed engines, when they in fact did not. If you are not sure, we can help. We can check the condition of your rings and valves by doing both a compression and a leak down test. This will give a good idea of the overall condition of your engine, and whether it needs to be rebuilt, or not. This will give you peace-of-mind about your decision. We will also partially credit the charge for this service towards the cost of your rebuilt engine, if that turns out to be what you need.
There are numerous sources for purchasing a rebuilt engine. A new car dealer, garage, or gas station may buy a rebuilt engine elsewhere or have the machining done in another shop such as ours. They install the engine, do not test it properly, and send the customer on their way. A machine shop may rebuild an engine and 'sub' out the installation. When problems arise, who is responsible? The rebuilder? The dealer? The garage? The customer gets caught in the middle, with no one wanting to take responsibility.
Pay close attention to the warranty on the rebuilt engine you are buying. Is there a written warranty? Many installers have none. Will you receive in writing a detailed list of what will be done inside your engine? As this booklet explains in detail, a "rebuilt" engine can vary from reground valves and reringed pistons, to our better-than-new Reliability Engine. One "rebuilder" in Colorado went to jail for painting used engines and selling them as "rebuilt." Get the warranty and information on the details of your rebuilt engine in advance, before you make your decision.
If there is a written warranty, read it carefully. All 5 year warranties are not the same. Here are some of the things to look for. Is the warranty limited to a certain dollar amount ($750 or $1,000 are common). Will the warranty be pro-rated, based on the mileage you have driven (most are)? Does coverage change after the first year (often additional exclusions and limitations kick in)? Does the warranty cover removing and reinstalling the engine (many do not)? Is a longer warranty "available" (if so, it means you are buying the same basic engine, with an extra insurance policy).
When you purchase a RELIABILITY ENGINE from QUALITY ENGINES, LLC., these concerns are eliminated. Our warranty is not prorated. With our best warranty, you also get our best machining and best parts. The warranty covers both the engine and the labor to remove and install it. Please refer to the written limited warranty on the Reliability Engine.
QUALITY ENGINES, LLC. takes pride as being the one firm in the entire Rocky Mountain area that has the capability of remanufacturing, installing, properly testing, and delivering a finished product to our customers.
We are proud of our shop. Fifty service bays. A complete in-house engine machine shop. Certified technicians. Centuries of experience. We urge you to tour our shop and we will show you the equipment necessary to rebuild an engine properly. Some rebuilders will falsely claim they do many of the machine processes we use, however, if you visit their shop, you quickly realize they don't have the equipment to do what they claim.
Much of this booklet will seem mysterious on first reading. Let us show you the parts of an engine and put them in your hands, and suddenly it will all start to make sense to you. You will understand the different levels of quality in machining and parts that are available to you. Even if you ultimately decide to buy elsewhere, you will be a much better educated consumer, and able to make the best engine decision for your needs.
We want to assure you that you have purchased a quality product by keeping you informed about all steps during the remanufacturing, tune up, final inspection and analysis process. We want you to be confident in the quality control available through QUALITY ENGINES, LLC.
Recognizing that people have different needs for, and money to invest in their vehicles, we offer a choice of different engines. They are remanufactured to provide you with the performance and longevity you personally desire.
We offer the Reliability engine, and a variety of stock rebuilt engines. All come with a limited warranty ranging from a 1 year - 12,000 mile warranty to a 6 year - 75,000 mile warranty. The warranty varies depending on your car/engine make, model, and the quality level you chose. Widely varying parts and machining techniques are used in various engines, all of which are advertised as "rebuilt". In addition to understanding what is included in the "rebuilt" you are buying to meet your personal needs, you also will need to refer to the specific written warranty on the engine you wish to buy.
We work with most of the major stock engine builders on a regular basis. We are happy to spend the time helping you to understand the options available to you.
Most customers, once they have taken the time to educate themselves, find that our top-of-the-line Reliability Engine provides the best quality for their investment. We have designed it to meet or exceed the specifications of your engine when it was new. Almost all wearing parts are replaced with new parts, many of which are superior to the parts that were installed in your engine when new. Additional and more precise machining techniques also help produce a superior engine. Here is some of what goes into a Quality Engine:
The importance of cleaning an engine properly cannot be overemphasized. Any residue, sludge, carbon, mineral deposits or dust will harm a remanufactured engine. For instance, carbon build up in the heads can result in pre-ignition which will literally mangle pistons. Or, mineral build up in the water jackets can result in overheating. Sludge remaining in the oil galleys can restrict the flow of oil to different areas of the engine and may significantly decrease the useful life. The following equipment and procedures result in a much cleaner engine:
1. Bake Oven: Baking at 700 degrees for 4 hours reduces sludge and contaminants to ashes.
2. Pressure Jet Washer: Water-based multi-metal cleaner is used to clean iron and aluminum parts, block, heads and intake manifold.
3. Glass Bead: Removes carbon from aluminum head(s) and intake manifold.
4. Airless Shot Machine: Removes carbon and contaminants from crankshaft, iron heads, intake manifold, and rods.
5. Ultrasound Tank: Quickly removes contaminants from small parts.
6. Pre-assembly wash and clean water rinse including final scrub and final steam pressure rinse of oil galleys.
We utilize three different jet washers, a bake oven, an airless shot machine, a glass bead machine, an ultrasound tank, and pressurized steam during the cleaning process. Many rebuilders use only one jet washer and an airless shot machine.
When the engine is disassembled, all bolt holes that accept bolts that should be torqued to proper specifications (the rod bolts, for example) are cleaned and chased to assure correct resistance when the bolts are torqued in place. Any stretched bolts are replaced. If the threads are not chased, the torque pressure on the bolts will be incorrect. Over a period of time this can result in warped heads, blown head gaskets, vacuum leaks, and numerous other problems. The bolts are placed in a cleansing machine that removes material remains. After being washed they are oiled prior to use, assuring proper torque pressure when assembling the engine. Most rebuilders are unwilling to expend the labor necessary to properly prepare the threads for torque acceptance of the bolt.
First, the block is checked for warp with a flat edge. If any warp exists, the engine is placed on a rotary broach and resurfaced for proper fit of the heads to the block.
Your block will be checked for cracks. If it is cracked, we will search for a replacement core for you, and notify you of the additional cost
Boring.
Your block will be placed on a boring machine and bored to within three thousandths (.003) to ten thousandths (.010) (the variation depends upon the characteristic distortion of the block when the heads are torqued to it) of the desired cylinder's size. Each time the block is rebored, the size of the cylinders is increased, and the size of the pistons must increase to compensate. Each block has a maximum recommended bore size. If the maximum bore size is exceeded (which we sometimes see in engines rebuilt elsewhere), your engine can overheat and develop other problems.
Honing.
The block is then placed on a honing machine and the cylinders are honed to fit the size of the new piston set. Honing is a three step process for each cylinder, using course and fine stones, then a final steel brush, and the block must be allowed to cool between each step. This process creates exact dimensions in your cylinders. The clearance size will be the center of the tolerance specifications of the particular engine with the following exceptions: engines in full size vehicles used for heavy duty work are honed to a size 60% above center tolerance and 40% below maximum tolerance. (These engines normally operate at a higher operating temperature and are more prone to overheat. If this happens, the piston skirts will penetrate the oil barrier, scuff the cylinder walls and pistons, which will increase the clearance enough that piston slap will occur prematurely. Piston slap will occur when the engine is restarted or can cause an engine to seize. When the crosshatch is scuffed the aluminum will fill in the crosshatch lubrication pattern causing loss of compression, oil rings wearing out prematurely, and loss of temper.) If the cylinder walls are not honed properly, unequal lubrication may result in hot spots and excessive wear of the rings, pistons, and cylinders.
Head Plates.
The head plates are a facsimile of the heads and are used to duplicate the distortion caused when the heads are torqued in place. When the block is placed on the hone with the Heavy Duty Head (head plates) torqued in place the bore is honed to the correct size, compensating for the distortion. This allows for a more precise fit for the pistons and rings within the cylinders. This hone, with the Heavy Duty Heads, will provide the exact geometric crosshatch lubricating pattern in the cylinder walls as in the original engine. This is considered to be the optimum lubricating pattern by the ring manufacturers.
This Quality of machining used for our Reliability Engine will become obvious from the very beginning as oil usage will immediately be considerably less than normal when an engine is rebuilt. When Head Plates are used, the precise fit of the piston into the cylinder substantially reduces the amount of ring wear and time needed for the rings to seat properly. The correction of the cylinder distortion and the exact lubrication pattern result in the cylinder walls, pistons, compression, and oil rings having a longer useful life. The compression will be equal between the different cylinders resulting in a smoother operating engine, increased acceleration, less gasoline and oil consumption. Equal compression in each cylinder distributes stress evenly over the rod and main bearings in the crankshaft assembly, in turn prolonging the life of the crankshaft assembly.
General Motors uses Head Plates when manufacturing the GM or AMC 151 engines, and the Pontiac 310 and 350 engines installed in Corvettes. Ford has used Head Plates on all 302 engines manufactured after 1983. We own more than 80 head plates for different engines, costing hundreds of dollars each, for use when machining Reliability Engines. New plates for other engines may be acquired when the need arises.
Note: Blocks honed without head plates will provide compression, piston, ring and cylinder life comparable to a new engine. Also, the distortion of the block caused by the attachment of the heads is minimal in most straight six cylinder engines and some V/8s, mitigating the need for use of the Head Plates.
When we purchase a set of pistons we check them for variation in size and weight. If there is a size variation in excess of half a thousandth (0.0005) or a weight variation of over 5 grams the set is returned (we have seen them with as much variance as 13 grams). We do not machine cylinders to fit off-sized pistons. When we find the set satisfactory, we machine the pistons to within less than a gram of each other. A heavy piston can not only make an engine run rough, it will exert additional pressure on the crankshaft resulting in premature rod or main bearing failure. Pistons and cylinders of the same size and weight maintain comparable compression in each cylinder and equal distribution of pressure over the crankshaft and rod bearings; again contributing to a smoother operating engine.
All crankshafts are straightened and precision ground to a micro finish. All oil holes are chamfered for better oiling.
The rods are individually inspected. They are ground flat, aligned properly together, and then honed dead center to specified tolerances. Any side rod clearances are inspected and polished as needed.
Most rebuilders will reuse and regrind the camshaft, which controls the opening and closing of your intake and exhaust valves. When the lobes of the camshaft are reground, however, the geometry of the head is changed. Other parts of the valve train must be adjusted in order to compensate for the changes in camshaft geometry. This is a poor way to begin building a superior engine. All of our Reliability Engines automatically include a new camshaft.
If an engine is going to perform for a reasonable period of time, the heads must be rebuilt properly. The heads in most rebuilt engines are, in our opinion, a quick fix. The heads are resurfaced, the valves and valve seats are reground, and that is it. Considering that the exhaust valves and valve seats (within the head) are the first and principle cause of deteriorating engine performance, we feel it is imperative to rebuild the heads with the best techniques and parts available..
The heads are completely cleaned, using a variety of techniques, depending on your specific head (see above). The heads are then visually inspected for cracks or casting flaws. Cast iron heads are treated with magnetic particles to detect flaws not visible to the eye. All heads are placed in a rotary broach and resurfaced for exact fit with the block. An improper fit results in blown head gaskets and other possible problems. If a head has been severely warped, resurfacing of the intake manifold may be necessary. After resurfacing, the valve guides, valve ports, head bolt holes, and oil drainage passages (plus the oil galleys in some four cylinder engines) are hand washed using various brushes and mineral spirits. After all this, the heads are washed a second time in the appropriate jet washer, rinsed with hot water, and blown dry. All other parts going into the head are placed in a parts tumbler machine which removes all foreign matter, leaving them extremely clean and unable to introduce foreign material into the new engine.
Valve Guides.
Different engines have different specifications for the exhaust and intake valve stem guide clearance. Some rebuilders use a thin insert which is placed inside the old guide and reamed to a standard clearance. Other rebuilders will ream the existing valve guide, then use an oversized valve. We instead use new hardened valve guides in our Reliability Engine. After installation, the guide is reamed to the center of the recommended clearance specification for that particular engine. Adhering to individual engine specifications reduces wear on the guide; also, reducing the possibility of a stuck valve. This is very important because worn guides, or guides with improper clearance, will result in excessive use of oil, fouled plugs, carbon build up, blue smoke from the exhaust, sticky valves, low compression, failed emission test, and can result in backfire through the carburetor or exhaust system.
In the past, we used bronze guides in place of the original cast iron guides. This proved to be unsatisfactory. Valve guides are now replaced with guides of like material to maintain the same expansion characteristics consistent with the engine design. Different materials expand differently when subjected to engine heat. When the material was interchanged, it frequently resulted in the valves seizing when the engine was moderately overheated. In summary, bronze guides are replaced with bronze and the guide holes for cast iron guides are machined to fit an extremely dense (harder than the original guide, having a considerably longer life expectancy) cast iron guide. The guides will last longer than in the original engine, providing more stability to the valve and the three angle seat.
Valve Seats.
The exhaust valve seat is a very critical part of the engine as it is the hottest spot in an engine. Over time, the cast iron seats erode because the valves are harder and more heat resistant than the seats. They can become so hot that they will anneal or weld to the seats. This causes the valves to remove particles from the seats which causes blow-by through the air tight seal required between the valve and the seat. This is the first problem that occurs in an engine that causes an obvious loss of power (particularly when climbing hills). The engine has worse compression, runs rough, lacks acceleration, and will use considerably more gasoline. This will also result in failure to pass emission tests.
When the Environmental Protection Agency outlawed the use of lead in gasoline, this amplified the problem because lead had acted as a lubricant between the valves and the seats. Automotive manufacturers responded by using heat induction in the seat area; hardening the cast iron to minimize the excessive wear of the seat. However, this method is inferior to hardened, heat resistant inserts used in diesel engines. The heads in our Reliability engines are modified to accept chrome nickel alloy inserts in the exhaust valve seats, similar to those used in diesel engines. This is superior to the original engine and so extends the useful life of the valves, valve seats, and the engine itself. After the insert is pressed in place, all valve seats are ground at three angles which provides a more precise fit, additional stability, and a more exact mesh of the valve and seat. This provides more compression and a superior seal, which in turn eliminates hot spots and blow-by. The exhaust valve seats will last considerably longer than the original seats and the engine will provide superior performance for an extended period of time.
Many rebuilders regrind the valves and the valve seats in order to achieve the air tight seal needed. When you regrind the seats it removes the hardened surface the manufacturer produced through heat induction, causing more rapid wear of the seats. Regrinding the valves reduces the mass, which increases the temperature of the valves. Between the excessive heat from the valves and the softened metal of the seats, regrinding is actually very destructive to both the valve and the seat.
Valves.
With our Reliability engine all of your valves are replaced with new ones (with the exception of a few engines, including some heavy duty (normally truck) engines and the Cadillac 4.1L). Most rebuilders will skip this step, because of the extra cost of new valves. However, a reground valve will already have a preworn valve stem, and will be lighter than specifications. Some rebuilders will even regrind the valve stem in order to make the valve work in the rebuilt head.
Each valve is individually tested on the bench with a vacuum tester which checks the fit of the valve seat. This is done before the engine is assembled. This is a method of quality control that saves us considerable time.
Through machining the guides to specifications, using chrome nickel exhaust valve seats, and properly angled valves, there will be a tight fit. When using new valves a tighter fit will be insured. The tighter the fit, the better the entire combination will operate. It will run more efficiently and at a cooler temperature.
Note: If your vehicle operates off of leaded fuel, through this process, your heads (the valves, valve seats, and valve guides) are being remanufactured to operate with unleaded gas. Lead acted as a hardening agent for the original seats. When we use hardened alloy iron seats it replaces the need for lead's natural hardening effects.
Valve Springs.
In our Reliability Engine we replace your valve springs. Many rebuilders test and then shim the springs to a specific pressure. A used spring requires a tighter shim than a new spring, resulting in a more rapid loss of tensile strength and slower movement. The resulting slower seal of the valve seat reduces the useful life of the spring, the valve, and the valve seat. A slower seal increases blow-by, resulting in burned valves and seats causing engine failure.
Heads being as important as they are, we question engine rebuilders that do not do a Quality job rebuilding the heads. Their engines, initially, run just fine. However, deteriorating performance will occur much sooner and is not covered by the warranty.
The pistons, connecting rods, and crank shaft are heavy, and rotate thousands of times a minute. If these parts are unbalanced, they will cause your engine to vibrate, reducing power and decreasing its life. You know that your tires need to be balanced. It is even more important that your engine be balanced.
Many rebuilders will tell you that balancing an engine is for racing engines only and that there is no need to do this for normal driving conditions. We disagree. With the introduction of the small, high performance engine (in the early eighties) the importance of balancing became clear to us. With engines now running at higher RPMs the force of rotation within an engine is greater. A couple of grams of weight variation can cause pounds of stressful centrifugal force within an engine. We did a study of 19 different General Motors 2.8L V/6 engines. We tested the amount of unbalance determining what the centrifugal force weight would be if not properly balanced. The worst of the 19 had 108.6 pounds of force while running at 4,000 RPM, and increased to 244.3 pounds of force when running at 6,000 RPM. The best we found, and the only one we found acceptable, had 13.8 pounds of force running at 4,000 RPM and went up to 21.6 pounds at 6,000 RPM.
Since the crankshaft absorbs the energy generated by the ignition of gasoline above each piston and transfers this energy via the crankshaft to the transmission it is beneficial to have each piece balanced. An engine with equal compression and displacement in each cylinder, with pistons of the same weight, will deliver more equal energy to the crank at a more exact time. This will provide more equal distribution of pressure across the crankshaft. This balancing includes all rods, rod caps, bolts & nuts, pistons, pins, and rings. These are all weight matched to create sets which are then combined with the harmonic balancer, flywheel, and pressure plates and spin balanced with computerized balancing equipment, increasing or decreasing the crankshaft counterweights, to achieve the desired centrifugal force weight.
Static Balancing.
We balance your connecting rods and pistons to within a few tenths of a gram of each other. These are the heaviest moving pieces in your engine and it is critical that they be in balance. Ask other shops to show you their scale, and ask them how accurate it is. Ours is good to one-tenth of one gram.
Dynamic Balancing.
We also dynamically balance the crankshaft assembly of your engine, which significantly improves the operation of the entire engine. Balancing an engine to such a degree improves every aspect of performance. It substantially increases the useful life of the crankshaft and other reciprocating parts. The engine runs cooler, more effortlessly, and accelerates more rapidly. We also balance the entire crankshaft and reciprocating assemblies, which substantially increases the life of the engine. With each part operating in exact harmony with all other parts, it simply runs more efficiently. In summary, all parts of the engine that significantly affect engine life and performance are remanufactured to last longer. If given proper care, your Reliability Engine should maintain superior performance, better gas mileage, and last longer than a new engine.
Prior to assembly the block is washed for a second time in the jet washer. Then it is rinsed with hot water and blown dry. All oil galleys (main and auxiliary), the oil filter, and the lifters are hand brushed clean with mineral spirits. The following parts are checked for minimal or excessive wear and replaced accordingly: timing belt tension idler, oil pump intermediate shaft, fuel pump push rod, spring keepers, and spring retainers. The reconditioned balanced rods are mated to new, balanced pistons of proper oversize. New rings are installed. The main journal bore in the block is checked with a dial bore gauge prior to installing the main bearings and crank which are then placed in the block. With the main bearings caps in place, the oiled cap bolts are torqued into the chased threads with plastigauge in place. The caps are removed and the mains are checked for proper oil clearance. Plastigauge is wiped from the shaft and bearings prior to the cap bolts being retorqued to proper values. The pistons and rings are installed in the cylinders. The rod caps are aligned and torqued to proper values, paying close attention to connecting rod side gap. A new camshaft and new bearings are installed with new cam sprockets or gears and new timing belt or chain. New gaskets and valve lifters are installed. The head is placed on the block, and oiled head bolts are torqued to proper value in chased threads. New freeze and galley plugs are installed. The existing oil pan and timing cover are bolted in place. The engine is pressure pre-lubed with oil throughout the entire oiling system before the engine is installed and operated.
There is more to installing an engine than just placing the engine in a vehicle. There are dozens of connections and adjustments to be made. All peripheral systems must be inspected and checked, in order to see that they are functioning properly, including cooling, fuel, electrical, computer, emissions, and exhaust systems. If the installation is not done properly there is a possibility, if not probability that the engine will be damaged. It is not uncommon to see a brand new engine ruined within a few hundred miles because of improper installation, and because peripheral systems are not functioning properly. After the engine and all peripheral systems have been setup and checked, the vehicle is road tested under a variety of conditions. It is then brought back into the shop for a final inspection of the installation and any fluid leaks.
Rebuilding your engine to Reliability standards is the preferred choice for most consumers. For a few dollars more, it will give you a far superior engine that will keep your vehicle on the road for years to come.
A stock engine can be a good choice for many consumers, however. First, cost may be an issue. If you don't expect to be driving the vehicle long, the quality of most stock engines, even though they use fewer new parts and are machined to less demanding specifications, should be adequate in the short run. If turnaround on your vehicle is critical, a stock engine is also the way to go. Since the engine is available off the "shelf", your engine can be swapped out much quicker, than if it is rebuilt.
There are many out-of-state engine rebuilders who rebuild engines on a mass production basis, to widely varying specifications. The lowest level of rebuild is a simple ring job and basic "head job", which can only be expected to last a year or two. While everyone replaces bearings, there is a wide variety in the quality of bearings used. Most rebuilders go at least one step up from there, providing new pistons and reboring the block (although not to the exacting specifications of the Reliability Engine).
Most high volume rebuilders reuse dozens of parts, including your camshaft, intake and exhaust valves, springs, rocker arms & pivets, lifters, push rods, and timing set. Cracked heads and blocks are typically welded and reused. Cranks and cams are often welded. On the machining side, the all-important hardened exhaust seats are often skipped. Head plates and correct hone lubricating patterns are not used. Most importantly, few balance critical
moving parts, either statically or dynamically, which increases engine vibration, cuts efficiency, and accelerates engine wear.
Stock engine warranties vary as widely as the quality of the work done inside the engine. Since your warranty will be that of the manufacturer, it is important that you read it carefully and understand it completely.
Because of the wide variety of quality and warranties found in stock engines, visit us and let us help you with your decision. We have access to almost every major line of stock engines available in Colorado. We can help you pick the one that suits your personal needs.
The performance and useful life of an engine is determined by the following peripheral systems that control an engine, as applicable:
1. Fuel 3. Vacuum 5. Cooling 7. Emissions 9. Oil & filter / contaminants
2. Turbo 4. Exhaust 6. Ignition 8. Air intake 10. Sensors, solenoids and relays
11. Computer input and output 12. Transmission torque converter
If these systems are not working properly, the engine performance will be unsatisfactory. In some circumstances, they can damage and eventually destroy the engine. Unfortunately, few engine rebuilders and installers have the proper equipment or technical expertise to thoroughly check out and test these systems. Frequently, the reason for remanufacturing an engine is the result of multiple defects in the peripheral engine control systems. To deliver an engine without proper check-out is, in our opinion, improper. If you decide to delay repair, you will be advised of any potential problems. However, preliminary diagnosis may not disclose all potential problems.
A properly rebuilt engine is very tight and it is harder for the starter system to turn over. It will initially operate at higher temperatures than the engine it replaces. The engine will only operate as efficiently as the ignition and fuel system permit. After we install an engine in a vehicle, during tune-up and final inspection, we frequently find what caused an engine to wear out prematurely.
It is not uncommon to rebuild an engine at 50,000 to 80,000 miles that should have been a decent engine for a minimum of 130,000 miles. The engine wore out prematurely because of problems elsewhere in the engine enclosure that caused excessive engine wear. After an engine is installed, the cause of premature wear is frequently found during our setup and final inspection of your engine. Investing money in a remanufactured engine and failing to correct the cause of the original engine failure is expensive and may result in premature failure of your new engine.
An older engine that has been driven many miles will probably need spark plug wires, overhauled carburetor, rebuilt distributor, ignition module and new coil. A late model engine that was destroyed because of over heating or lack of oil would not need these parts. A rebuilt engine is tight, has higher compression than the engine it replaces, and will generate more heat. A cooling system that is not performing properly could have cooled the older engine satisfactorily, but may be incapable of cooling your rebuilt engine. The rebuilt engine is more demanding on all parts that contribute to performance. If the distributor, vacuum advance, spark plug wires, ignition module, sensors, or carburetor are not working properly, the engine will only operate as efficiently as the weakest link among the other parts. Labor savings on replacing ignition and fuel system parts can be considerable if installed while your engine is out of the vehicle. You may wish to discuss some of these systems with your sales representative if you decide to rebuild your engine.
Through our experience we have found overheating to be responsible for more engine problems or engine failure than all other causes combined. Overheating will destroy an engine quickly and if driven for just a very short time will inflict permanent damage that may become apparent immediately or at a later date. Rod and main bearings may wear out much sooner than anticipated. Rings overheating and loss of temper may result in the rings collapsing immediately or at a later date. Valves and seats may get burned or stick in the guides. Overheating may be the beginning of valve blow-by and increased deterioration of performance within a decreasing time frame.
A rebuilt engine has higher compression, and places more demand on the cooling system than the worn engine it replaced. We recommend taking the radiator to the radiator shop and having them rod the tubes of the radiator for removal of scale and mineral buildup. Then have them pressure test it in a water tank and repair any leaks. We also recommended replacing the heater hoses (and clamps), the radiator hoses (and clamps), all belts, the water pump, and the radiator cap. We can sell all of these parts at an economic price as part of our Cooling System Renewal kit. Please ask for pricing.
After installation, the cooling system is pressure tested to detect leaks in the radiator, hoses, and pump connection. The fan clutch, motor and switches, temperature sender, engine light or gauge (as appropriate to the particular vehicle) are checked for accuracy. The heater core will be visually inspected for leaks.
This is a sensible investment that will have to be done sooner or later and will cost considerably less if done while the engine is out of the vehicle. You will typically save 50-100% on labor replacing these parts at the same time as the engine.
If you plan on keeping your vehicle for a long time with years of trouble free performance, out Quality Performance Kit may be of interest. Your car's fuel and electrical systems are critical to the performance and long-life of your new engine. Several items commonly wear out over time, and you may want to consider replacing them now.
A Fuel Pump Diaphragm will leak into and dilute the oil resulting in overheating and excessive wear. A weak fuel pump will restrict the flow of gasoline. The engine may die or cut out at high RPM or while climbing hills. The engine may vapor lock and not start.
Spark Plug Wires can cause a cylinder not to fire or produce unsatisfactory voltage to the plug, resulting in poor performance, excessive use of gas, oil dilution and fouled spark plugs. A Spark Plug Harness should be of top quality. The harness should be manufactured for the specific year, model of vehicle, engine and type of ignition system.
If your car has a Carburetor, you should consider replacing the floats. If your car is Fuel Injected, consider getting them serviced. It is critical that your fuel system is in top shape.
A Distributor, Coil, or Ignition Module can cause improper timing, dieseling, preignition, misfire, backfire and fouled spark plugs. If you continue to drive the vehicle with any of the above problems, you may cause irreversible damage to the engine.
We offer a Performance Kit incorporating all of these common wear items at an economic kit price. Please call for pricing.
A Carburetor that is not vaporizing the fuel properly can result in fuel being too lean or too rich. If too rich, it will wash the cylinder walls of oil, dilute the oil, cause excessive ring and cylinder wear and piston slap. We will recommend a carburetor overhaul if we cannot adjust yours to proper manufacture specifications or when the car has over 100,000 miles on it and the carburetor has not already been rebuilt. A typical carburetor overhaul consists of installing a carburetor kit (in effect rebuilding your carburetor), replacing the floats, and adjusting the carburetor so the engine operates smoothly and will pass emissions. If your carburetor is not rebuildable we will recommend a remanufactured carburetor. Over time, we have found that remanufactured carburetors still need to be tested and adjusted, because they are often far out of adjustment out of the box. The engine is connected to the computer and the carburetor must pass operating specifications for hydrocarbon, carbon monoxide, oxygen, carbon dioxide, and fuel enrichment. The carburetor is also tested with a vacuum leak detector for vacuum loss through the core, indicating improper overhaul or faulty installation.
Fuel injectors, if not working properly, can ruin your engine in the same way as described under the carburetor section above. Replacing bad injectors is one possibility. We can also clean and service most injectors like new, however. It is no longer necessary to replace these expensive parts ($125-$175 each x 2 - 8 injectors = $250 to $1400). Our service is not the additive in your gas tank most shops sell. While off the engine, we can test the injectors for: leaking, spray pattern, and fuel flow rate. The injectors performing properly will dramatically improve vehicle performance and reduce exhaust emissions, saving you money in the end.
Motor Mounts.
These must be replaced if cracked or oil soaked. Your new engine will have more torque and will exert more stress on the mounts than in the past. If installed with the engine, the labor is considerably less.
Clutch Pad,
Pressure Plate, and Throw Out Bearing. These can be replaced for a nominal labor charge if installed when your engine is out of the vehicle. We will also resurface your flywheel when replacing the clutch pad.
High Altitude or RV Cams.
These will in some cars provide a reasonable increase in performance that could justify the additional cost. The cam increases the engines ability to breathe, which improves the performance at cruising speeds. The cam will not have a significant effect at high RPM but does provide a noticeable increase in acceleration and better mileage when cruising. This is a positive improvement if your vehicle will be used towing trailers or if you desire improved acceleration and better gas mileage. These cams should not be installed on most late model engines and we will not install a cam that adversely effects performance or emissions.
Dual Exhaust Systems / Headers.
These will have a minimal positive effect on the engine's performance. We do not recommend headers as they are prone to leak, producing an unacceptable noise within the engine enclosure. If we install headers, it will be at the shop's hourly rate, not a fixed price. We will not guarantee they will not leak after installation and we will not install headers if in violation of EPA regulations.
On Board Computer and Wiring.
If the on board computer or wiring is not working properly, adversely affecting the performance of the engine, you will be contacted and advised. Wiring, electrical and computer diagnosis and repair is done on an hourly basis. We regret our inability to quote a firm price. However, there is no way to properly estimate the time involved. We are equipped for diagnosis of about 90% of the different computers. On occasion, it may be necessary for diagnosis to be done at a dealership.
With a complete, 50 bay service shop, we can serve all of your automotive service needs:
Brakes Air Conditioning Fuel Injection Struts Front End
Shocks Transmission Transfer Cases Performance Drive Train
We have a computerized database for almost all makes of cars from 1982 forward. All factory recalls, technical bulletins, vehicle maintenance schedules, and any other information is available. We also have a computerized database from Automotive Engine Rebuilder's Association, which gives the latest and best rebuilding standards on almost all common engines. These enable us to perform needed updates or repairs consistent with current data and advise our customer to take the vehicle to a dealership because of manufacturer recalls, or to make up-to-date changes recommended by the manufacturer. These databases can assist us in diagnosing operating problems and give us proper installation guidelines. It also enables us to provide our customer with the manufacturer's maintenance schedule.
Because of our high standards and the popularity of our product, we often have more work than we can do internally. We will sometimes subcontract work to vendors who agree to maintain our high standards in the work they do. Also, technology and engine rebuilding information is constantly changing. Accordingly, the procedures and parts described in this brochure may be modified without notice, if in our opinion those changes will be beneficial to the customer.
The time it will take to rebuild your engine will depend on how busy we are. Please ask us for a time estimation. After we pull your engine there are several possibilities which may delay progress which you may want to keep in mind. For example, if your core is not reusable it will take time to find another one. We have had to go through as many as 3 bad blocks, before we have found one acceptable for rebuilding. If there are unexpected problems or if you elect to have additional non-engine repairs made, this will also take additional time. There may be delays in getting parts. Delays in finding and shipping parts for older vehicles are particularly difficult. If further diagnosis is needed that could also cause delays. When you have additional repairs many systems require step by step retesting, which may take additional time. In any case you will be advised and informed.
We require a deposit for one-half of the price before beginning work. Financing is available on a monthly payment plan or ninety days terms with no interest. Upon pick up of your vehicle, we require cash or cashiers check for final payment.
We are often asked about swapping to a larger engine size. That used to be a common procedure. With today's environmental regulations, however, the costs of engine swapping are prohibitive. First, you will have to buy many additional parts, simply to get the engine to fit in your car, usually including new intake and exhaust manifolds, a new exhaust system, a larger radiator, new parts to connect to your drive train, and on and on. Then you must replace all of your pollution control equipment, including your computer(s). The EPA has detailed rules on what is, and isn't allowed. Many swaps are simply illegal, and will not pass emissions testing. When you are done with the project, you will easily have spent $10,000 or more.
Instead, we focus on renewing the engine that was designed for your vehicle, bringing it back up to new, or better than new standards. If you really feel you need a larger engine, consider buying a vehicle with that engine already in it, then rebuilding it.
Rebuilding your engine is a great alternative for many consumers. With the price of a new vehicle at $20,000 to $30,000 or more, keeping your current vehicle on the road can be a great savings. Often, the cost of a rebuilt engine will be less the just the taxes, license, and insurance on a new car. I you are considering a used vehicle, think about the fact there is no warranty and you may just be buying somebody else's problem. We often rebuild engines in "new" used cars when the customers discover that they had bought cars with bad engines. With your car, you know its overall condition. With our Reliability Engine, you can get a better the new engine warranty on it.
For many customers, the is either a classic, or their own personal classic for sentimental reasons. There is simply no substitute for rebuilding the engine. We rebuild many classic cars, giving the an extra touch of tender-loving-care.
All rebuilt engines are not the same. The are huge differences in parts and machining techniques. Since the differences are inside the engine, you, the consumer, cannot see them. That doesn't mean they aren't critically important. Whether you buy from us or not, we'll spend the time with you to help you understand your options and make a wise buying decisions to meet you personal needs. We invite you to come visit our shop and we'll show you the differences in rebuilt engines.
|
Basic |
Stock #1 |
Stock #2 |
Reliability |
|
|
Rings |
* |
* |
* |
* |
|
Bearings (note quality differences) |
* |
* |
* |
* |
|
3-Angle Valve Grind |
* |
* |
* |
|
|
Intake valves |
* |
* |
||
|
Exhaust valves |
* |
*
|
||
|
Chrome/Nickel Alloy exhaust valve seats |
* |
* |
||
|
Fuel pump push rod |
* |
|||
|
Oil pump intermediate shaft |
* |
|||
|
Valve springs |
* |
* |
||
|
Timing belt tension idler |
* |
|||
|
Freeze and Galley plugs |
* |
* |
* |
|
|
New pistons & pins |
* |
* |
* |
|
|
Balance all pistons to each other |
* |
* |
||
|
Balance all connecting rods to each other |
* |
* |
||
|
Dynamically computer balance crank assembly |
* |
|||
|
Head, torque plate |
* |
|||
|
Cylinder hone (block cooled) |
* |
|||
|
Hone exact lubricating pattern |
* |
* |
||
|
Oil ports chamfered |
* |
* |
* |
|
|
Camshaft |
* |
|||
|
Timing set |
* |
* |
||
|
Timing chain or belt |
* |
* |
* |
|
|
Oil pump (kit in front cover) |
* |
* |
||
|
Oil Pump Screen (extra cost item, some engines) |
* |
|||
|
Valve lifters |
* |
* |
||
|
Hardened valve guides |
* |
|||
|
Pilot Bushing (appropriate) |
* |
* |
||
|
Push rods |
* |
* |
||
|
Rocker arms & Pivots |
* |
* |
EXCLUDING GASKETS, PLUGS, & SEALS
|
8 Cylinders |
26 |
43 |
134 |
156 |
|
6 Cylinders |
21 |
34 |
103 |
121 |
|
4 Cylinders |
16 |
25 |
72 |
86 |
|
Months |
? |
18 |
24 |
72 |
|
Miles |
? |
18,000 |
24,000 |
75,000 |
|
Prorated? |
? |
No |
No |
No |
|
Maximum Labor $? |
? |
$300 |
$350 |
No |
|
Maximum Labor Rate? |
? |
$40 |
$25 |
No |